Mt.Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167m) l Churen Himal Treks

Mt.Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167m)

Starting From

Kathmandu

Ending at

Kathmandu

Duration

48 Days

Accommodation

Hotel, Lodges and Tent

Trip Grade

Difficult

Max. Altitude

8,167m

Meal Plan

Break-fast,Lunch and Diner

Group size

2-15

Mt. Dhaulagiri, the 7th highest peak in the world, stands majestically at 8,167 meters above sea level. Situated in the Himalayas of Nepal, it is a true gem for mountaineers seeking a challenging and rewarding adventure. The expedition to this colossal peak offers unparalleled views of snow-covered peaks, pristine glaciers, and an untouched natural environment. It also provides trekkers and climbers with a thrilling experience of technical climbing, making it a perfect challenge for those with alpine climbing experience.

Trip Highlights:

Dramatic Viewpoints: The trek offers breathtaking panoramas of nearby mountains, including Annapurna, Manaslu, and Machapuchare.
Challenging Climbing: Experienced climbers will be able to tackle various technical sections, adding excitement to the journey.
Breathtaking Glaciers: Pass through the impressive Dhaulagiri Glacier and icefall.
Remote Adventure: Discover remote villages, pristine landscapes, and experience the rugged wilderness of Nepal.
Summit Success: Reaching the summit provides an unparalleled sense of achievement amidst some of the highest peaks in the world.

The Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition is the ultimate choice for mountaineers seeking both extreme challenge and breathtaking natural beauty.

Journey Overview

The expedition begins in Kathmandu, where climbers finalize their preparations before traveling to the starting point at Beni. From Beni, the trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp takes you through diverse and stunning landscapes, including charming villages and lush forests. The trek helps acclimatize climbers to the high altitudes and prepares them for the ascent.

Acclimatization and Climbing

Reaching Base Camp marks the start of rigorous acclimatization. Climbers undertake a series of rotations to higher camps, including Camp 1 and Camp 2, to adjust to the thinning air. These rotations involve navigating challenging terrain, including icy slopes and rocky sections. Proper acclimatization is crucial for a successful summit attempt.

The journey from Base Camp to the summit of Mt. Dhaulagiri is a demanding and exhilarating part of the expedition. Here’s a breakdown of this critical segment:

1. Base Camp to Camp 1 (6,050m / 19,849ft)
The ascent from Base Camp to Camp 1 involves navigating a mix of rocky terrain and ice slopes. Climbers will need to cross the Dhaulagiri Icefall, which features shifting ice and crevasses. Reaching Camp 1 requires careful attention to route-finding and using fixed ropes for safety. This camp is typically set on a rocky outcrop and serves as the first significant rest stop.
2. Camp 1 to Camp 2 (6,400m / 21,000ft)
From Camp 1, climbers proceed to Camp 2, situated on a broad, relatively flat area. This segment includes ascending the steep, icy slopes of the French Pass. The climb to Camp 2 requires navigating challenging ice and snow conditions. Camp 2 provides a crucial resting point and is essential for acclimatization before continuing higher.
3. Camp 2 to Camp 3 (7,400m / 24,280ft)
The route from Camp 2 to Camp 3 involves crossing the challenging sections of the mountain, including the steep, technical sections of the Dhaulagiri Face. Climbers will need to use fixed ropes and tackle steep ice and rocky terrain. Camp 3 is often positioned on a high, exposed ridge and offers limited shelter but crucial acclimatization time.
4. Camp 3 to Summit (8,167m / 26,795ft)
The final ascent from Camp 3 to the summit is the most strenuous and requires a pre-dawn start to maximize the chances of reaching the summit during daylight hours. Climbers will face severe cold, high winds, and thin air. The route includes the challenging sections of the summit ridge and the technical rock and ice faces. Reaching the summit provides stunning panoramic views and a profound sense of accomplishment.
5. Descent
Descending from the summit involves retracing the route back to Base Camp. The descent is equally demanding, requiring careful navigation to avoid accidents. Climbers must manage fatigue and weather conditions as they make their way down.
Overall, the journey from Base Camp to the summit of Mt. Dhaulagiri is a rigorous test of endurance, technical skill, and determination. Proper preparation and acclimatization are essential for a successful climb.

Itinerary

Arrive in Kathmandu

Upon your arrival at Kathmandu airport, one of our representatives will greet you and will transfer you to the hotel. Welcome Evening dinner at authentic Nepalese restaurant with cultural performance. Airport pickup by private Car, Van or Bus (According to group size) Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Bagmati, Nepal.

Expedition briefing at Department of Tourism

A formal expedition briefing takes place at Nepal’s Department of Tourism. This crucial session ensures you have the necessary climbing permits, discusses regulations, and provides an opportunity to meet your guides and support team. It’s also when logistical details such as routes, schedules, and safety protocols are reviewed. Meals: Breakfast Accommodation: Night in the hotel

Drive from Kathmandu – Beni (1,000m,9h)

We will be heading towards Beni which is also the starting point for our trek. We need to drive on Prithivi Highway from Kathmandu. The drive will last for about 9 hours. The drive will be long but the views along the highway are beautiful and will pass through the famous lake city of Pokhara. Overnight at teahouse

Drive:Beni – Dharapani (1560m,6h)

We will move towards Darbang. From Darbang we will walk about 3-4 hours to reach Dharapani. Following the river(Myagdi Khola). On the way, we will see Dhaulagiri range, Gorje himal. We will cross Magar and Gurung village. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 6 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 783 m Cumulative Descend Value: 145 m

Dharapani – Muri (1850m,6h)

After crossing the river to its West Bank as you leave Phedi, the trail starts climbing in earnest and there will be many switch-backs until you arrive at the ridge and the angle of ascent eases. Again the trail climbs steeply to the villages of Muri. Continue your trek to Sibang and Mattim. From here you continue up an incline to the snout of the ridge, descend to the Gatti Khola and reach Phalai Gaon (1,810m). Cross the Dhara Khola to once again emerge on the west bank of the Myagdi Khola and then climb a ridge to the large Magar village of Muri.Overnight camping. Walking duration: 6 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 693 m Cumulative Descend Value: 396 m Overnight at teahouse

Muri – Bagar (2080m,6h)

Starting from Muri it will take us about 6 hours to reach the Baghara. Today we will be crossing a river called Dhora Khola. Alongside Dhora Khola notice terrace farmlands. From here we will climb the mountain right to us until we reach Ghorban Dhara. Ghorban Dhara provides the perfect view of Ghustung south which is elevated at 6465m. We will then start following the path alongside Myagdi Khola until we reach Naura. We will climb right up the mountainside to Ghorban Dhara. From Ghorban Dhara, we will get to see Ghustung South (6465m). Before reaching the Naura we follow the riverbank path of Myagdi Khola. From Naura, we ascend begins on the mountainside. Sometimes of uphill climbing, and a path that traverses the steep grass-covered hills. And trailing further away in a well-constructed zigzag stone steep paths while descending through a forested area, emerging to a ridge snout Bagar becomes visible elevate at 2050m. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 6 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 1039 m Cumulative Descend Value: 795 m

Bagar – Dobang (2545m,5h)

The trail first descends through terraced fields to a small ridge, then through a forest to Jyardan which is the most remote permanent settlement in this part. After the settlement, a high winding path crosses a rocky area which then descends before climbing again to Lipshe where there is one single hut. The trail continues through a forest to Lapche Kharka and then climbs to the level area at Dobang. Dobang is a largish clearing in the forest with two huts and a large area for camp. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 5 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 892 m Cumulative Descend Value: 503 m

Dobang – Sallaghari (3445m,6h)

The trail continues through the dense, lush vegetation of ferns, bamboo and rhododendrons. We cross to the east bank of the Myagdi Khola on a new cantilever bridge and then camp at a clearing in the forest at Sallaghari. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 6 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 680 m Cumulative Descend Value: 130 m

Sallaghari – Italian BC (3660m,4h)

From Sallaghari we walk through Pine trees, Rhododendron, Birch, once above the tree line heather, juniper and azaleas. The trail traverses through forest and then climbs to a grassy area on the lateral moraine where Italian Base Camp is located. High above camp is the impressive west face of Dhaulagiri with Tsaurabong Peak visible on the other side of the valley. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 4 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 1310 m Cumulative Descend Value: 230 m

Rest Day for Acclimatization.

Today we can go for a walk to explore the Italian Base Camp or relax in camp. This day is essential for acclimatisation before ascending further in altitude towards main Dhaulagiri Base Camp. Overnight camping.

Upper Vungini (Italian BC) – Japanese BC (3890m,5h)

Today is a shorter walk although essential for acclimatization process, unlike most other itineraries we believe in having two nights at Glacier Camp located between Italian Base Camp and main Dhaulagiri Base Camp (otherwise going from 3,660m to 4,740m will result in altitude sickness). From Italian Base Camp, the trail descends steeply down the lateral moraine to gain the glacier, in the past, we have fixed a rope here to help the group and trek crew. We cross the glacier and then traverse along the moraine on the left side of the Chonbarden gorge. We walk along talus in the impressively narrow Chonbarden gorge to the snout of the Chonbarden glacier and then continue for another hour to Glacier camp. There are a number of ledges levelled in the ice of the glacier for our tents. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 5 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 695 m Cumulative Descend Value: 124 m

Japanese BC – Dhaulagiri BC(4748m,5h)

We follow a rough trail along the moraine covered glacier to Dhaulagiri Base Camp. From Base Camp the view is impressive with Dhaulagiri I, Tukuche Peak and Little Eiger and further to the west lay Dhaulagiri II (7,751m) and IV (7,618m). One can also see the start of the climbing route through the icefall. In season there are likely to be expeditions camped on the moraine strip at Base Camp. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 5 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 495 m Cumulative Descend Value: 43 m

13-40

Climbing period of Dhaulagiri (8167m)

Dhaulagiri BC – French Col(5360m) – Hidden Valley (5140m,7h)

After an early breakfast, we walk out of Base Camp along the moraine strip to cross over to the left-hand side of the Upper Chonbarden glacier. A high lateral moraine ridge is visible further up the valley; we gain this by following a steep trail across the screen and talus. Once on the lateral moraine ridge there are superb views back down the valley to Dhaulagiri I and Tukuche Peak. At a large cairn on the lateral moraine ridge, we turn off to make the final ascent to French pass . The approach to the pass is up easy angled snow slopes and as usual in Nepal, the top is marked by Buddhist prayer flags and cairns. The view from the summit of the pass is superb with Sita Chuchura, the peaks of the Mukut Himal, Tashi Kang, Tukuche Peak and of course Dhaulagiri I. The descent from the pass is on moderate snow slopes as we enter Hidden Valley. After a long descent, you arrive at camp next to the river not far from the base of Dhampus Peak. You will notice once crossing into Hidden Valley there is only sparse vegetation of isolated patches of moss and grass as this area is now in an area affected by the rain shadow effect of Dhaulagiri. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 7 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 690 m Cumulative Descend Value: 223 m

Hidden Valley – Cross Thapa Pass (5244m) – Kalo Pani (5100m,7h)

This is a long day and by far the toughest on Dhaulagiri Circuit trek. After an early start from camp, we start the climb up a moderate snow slope to gain Dhampus pass. There are fine views of Dhampus Peak to the left of the pass and to the right the beautiful ice flutings of Tukuche Peak. From the summit of the pass, the trail descends pass for about 100m before start to traverse left into Kali Gandaki valley. Depending on the snow and ice conditions crampons may be needed for group & porters at this point. There is a very long traverse on snow usually taking about four hours before starting the steep descent to Kalo pani. Throughout this traverse, there are stunning views of Nilgiri and the western end of the Annapurna Massif. Overnight camping. Walking duration: 7 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 164 m Cumulative Descend Value: 314m

Kalo Pani – Marpha (2670m,5h)

There is a very long traverse on snow usually taking about five hours before starting the steep descent to Kalo pani. Throughout this traverse, there are stunning views of Nilgiri and the western end of the Annapurna Massif. There is a long descent today to the village of Marpha located in the Kali Gandaki valley. Marpha village has a Buddhist monastery, Tibetan whitewashed houses and paved streets. It is also famous for its apple orchards so well worth stopping here to get a glass of apple juice at one of the lodges. Overnight in Marpha. Walking duration: 5 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 1082 m Cumulative Descend Value: 2332 m

Marpha – Jomsom (2710m,3h)

Jomsom is the best place in town located opposite the airport. After hot showers you can explore Jomsom, check emails than in the evening the cooks will produce a special last meal together. Later on, we will hand out tips to our crew as a thank you for all their hard work throughout the trek. Overnight: teahouse lodge. Walking duration: 3 Hours Cumulative Ascend Value: 50 m Cumulative Descend Value: 1233 m

Fly:Jomsom – Pokhara (35min)

Early morning we will take a short picturesque flight to Pokhara. The view of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountains and the world’s deepest gorge, Kali Gandaki is stunning. Relax whole day in Hotel or wander around Lake Side with fascinating mountains panorama view and nature charming. Explore the various interesting places like Mahendra Cave, David’s fall and the various lakes of course.

Drive: Pokhara – Kathmandu (7h)

After breakfast, we leave the beautiful lake city of Pokhara and drive towards Kathmandu. After reaching Kathmandu, we have the rest of the day off to rest or do some souvenir shopping.

Debriefing at Tourism Industry Division

A debriefing session marks the official conclusion of the expedition. Use the rest of the day to explore Kathmandu’s hidden gems or shop for souvenirs in Thamel or simply unwind before heading home. Meals: Breakfast Accommodation: Night in the Hotel

Final Departure

Bid farewell to Nepal, enriched by the incredible memories of your Manaslu Expedition. Ensure you leave with ample time for goodbyes and future plans to return for more adventures! Our representative transfers you to the Kathmandu airport to catch your returning flight back home. Thank you for Travelling with Churen Himal Treks. Airport drop by private Car, Van or Bus (According to group size) Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Bagmati, Nepal. Meals: Breakfast

Cost & Dates

The cost includes

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE : Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop), by a private vehicle.
HOTEL ACCOMMODATION IN KATHMANDU :4-night hotel in Kathmandu (4-star category) - single room on bed and breakfast plan.
WELCOME DINNER :One Welcome Dinner in a tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staff.
PERMITS : Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt.Dhaulagiri, Conservation area entry permits and fee and Restricted area permit fee.
LIAISON OFFICER: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, and accommodation.
GARBAGE MANAGEMENT : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
INSURANCE : Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
MAP : Trekking and climbing map.
DUFFLE BAG : One Churen Duffle Bag.
MEMBER TRANSPORTATION : all required equipment Transportation for all Member and Staffs From Kathmandu to Beni and Pokhara to Kathmandu (by bus) as per itinerary.
EXPEDITION STUFFS TRANSPORTATION : All necessary equipment transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu to Beni and Pokhara to Kathmandu (by bus) as per itinerary.
MEMBER LUGGAGE : Up to 50 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.Up to 50 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek to be carried by porters or Yaks.
FOOD AND LODGING : 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at the Basecamp. Hygienic and fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fruits, soft drinks, and juice will be served regularly during the entire expedition using helicopter flights. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staff.
PORTER : Porter per member up to and from Base camp (both ways).
BASE CAMP STAFF : Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
STAFF SALARY AND ALLOWANCE : All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, food & clothing.
BASE CAMP TENT : Each member will have an individual box tent in Base Camp.
BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT :Single Tent, foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dining Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staff, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
HEATER : Heater at base camp in each Dining and other necessary camps.
SOLAR/GENERATOR/LIGHT : 1 Solar panel or Generator for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
TRAINING : Oxygen, Mask Regulator, Ice wall, and Ladder training at Basecamp by a professional guide.
HIGH ALTITUDE CLIMBING SHERPA : Governments-licensed climbing Sherpa per member (1 Member: 1 Sherpa), during the entire climb from Basecamp to the summit and back, and on each rotation.
ASSISTANCE : Climbing Sherpa to assist in carrying your gear to the high camps.
CLIMBING SHERPA SALARY & ALLOWANCE : Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing.
OXYGEN BOTTLE (O2) : Summit Oxygen: 3 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 1 oxygen bottle for each high-altitude Sherpa. **
OXYGEN MASK & REGULATOR : 1 Set of Summit Oxygen masks and regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa, which has to be returned after the expedition.
BACK-UP OXYGEN : Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
HIGH CAMP SERVICE (INFRASTRUCTURE AND LOGISTICS) :High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa, and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, and fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
HIGH CAMP KITCHEN AND DINING : We will have one cook, kitchen, and dining tents in Camp I and Camp II.
HIGH ALTITUDE TENT : Members will share tents in high camps (2 members: 1 tent).
ROPE FIXING TEAM : The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route on Manaslu (no extra charge will be applied to members).
SATELLITE PHONE :Satellite Phone for emergency communication carried by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
WALKIE-TALKIE : Walkie–Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
PERMITS : Satellite Phone/Walkie-talkie permit for all members and staff.
INTERNET SERVICE : Internet facility (1 Mbps) will be available at the Base Camp (subject to a charge).
WEATHER FORECAST :Weather forecast report regularly during the entire expedition.
MEDICAL KIT :Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
CERTIFICATE :Mt.Dhaulagiri climbing certificate (after climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri successfully)

The cost excludes

AIR FARE : International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
NEPAL ENTRY VISA FEE :The Nepalese Visa fee is $125 USD for 90 Days.
LUNCH & DINNER :Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
EXTRA NIGHTS IN KATHMANDU :Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition, or domestic flight cancellation (due to any other reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
INSURANCE POLICY :Insurance covering both medical and high-altitude evacuation costs (for the trip cancellation, interruption, high altitude rescue & air evacuation, medical treatment, repatriation, etc.) *Mandatory
PERSONAL EXPENSES :Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will have soft drinks for members at base camp).
PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT :Clothing, Packing Items, Bags, Personal Medical Kit, and all kinds of Personal Trekking / Climbing Gear.
TOILETRIES :Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
FILMING : Special Filming, Camera, and Drone permit fee.
INTERNET SERVICE : Not included during the trek.
SUMMIT BONUS :Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD.
TIPS : Calculate some tips for Basecamp staff – Minimum 400 USD.
EXTRA :Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary and other items not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.

Note: Due to unforeseeable factors (weather, fitness, customs, road conditions, landslides, etc.), your expedition leader may adjust the program as needed. The leader is the sole judge and guarantor of your safety. Activity times are for reference and may vary per participant.

Note: The provided itinerary is for reference only and may vary per participant. It's flexible to accommodate weather conditions. Follow your guide's recommendations, who may cancel or stop the expedition for safety or physical reasons. Remember, this is an autonomous expedition with potential hazards. Alpinist club, your expedition leader, guide, or local teams cannot be held responsible for any unforeseen issues.

Other Info

Equipment List:

Climbing Gear

Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
Alpine Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65-70cm)
Crampons: 12 points
Ascender: 1 right or left-hand ascender
A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops
Carabiners: 3 lockings and 6 regular*
Rappel device: ATC or figure 8*

Clothing

Footwear:

Mountaineering boots: suitable for above 8000m; Scarpa phantom 8000 or equivalent (This is because we can work under extreme weather conditions and also preparing you for your ultimate goal to climb Everest)
Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp.
Booties: Optional, down is best.
Bridgedale Summit socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
Bridgedale Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs

Body Layers:

2 merino base layers: top and bottom
1 mid-layer top: breathable
Underwear
Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
Soft Shell jacket with hoody: To be worn over other layers
Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellent
Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
Insulated Down Jacket with hood: (fill power 800) or equivalent to Rab’s Electron Jacket. We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 3
Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Summit Down Suit

Headgear and Handwear:

Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
Sunhat: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
Softshell gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
Expedition Mitts

Personal Gear:

Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F
Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack
High-Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred
Closed-cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
Spoon: Plastic spoon
Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
Lip balm with sunblock
Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with a 1-litre capacity
Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good one to keep your water warm for longer hours)
Pee bottle: 1-litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and a small towel
Hand warmers & toe warmers
Penknife or multi-tool (optional)
Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
Travel Clothes: For days in-country
Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
Base Camp Items: Kindle, I pad, smartphone, etc
Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good
Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care***, personal medications, etc
Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone

Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167m): Conquer the World’s Seventh-Highest Peak

Introduction

The Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition offers a thrilling adventure for experienced mountaineers looking to tackle one of the world’s most formidable peaks. Standing at 8,167 meters, Mt. Dhaulagiri is the seventh-highest mountain in the world and is known for its steep terrain and challenging weather conditions. Climbing Dhaulagiri is a test of both physical endurance and technical skill, making it a sought-after goal for serious climbers. If you're aiming to conquer an 8,000-meter peak that combines isolation, beauty, and difficulty, Mt. Dhaulagiri is the perfect challenge.

Where is Mt. Dhaulagiri Located?

Mt. Dhaulagiri is located in the Dhaulagiri Himal range in north-central Nepal. It sits west of the Annapurna range, separated by the Kali Gandaki Gorge, one of the world's deepest gorges. The Dhaulagiri region is known for its rugged landscapes, remote valleys, and rich cultural heritage. Trekkers and climbers alike are captivated by the region’s traditional villages and the pristine beauty of its glaciers and towering peaks.

Why Choose the Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri offers a unique, less commercialized experience compared to other 8,000-meter peaks such as Everest or Manaslu. Known for its technical difficulty, Dhaulagiri requires mountaineers to navigate steep slopes, treacherous crevasses, and high-altitude challenges, all of which provide an adrenaline-pumping adventure. Additionally, Dhaulagiri remains relatively less crowded, giving climbers a sense of solitude and exclusivity as they traverse its slopes.

Best Time to Climb Mt. Dhaulagiri

The most favorable time to embark on the Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) seasons. During these periods, the weather is more stable, offering clear skies and moderate temperatures, especially at high altitudes. Spring is known for warmer weather and melting snow, while autumn provides cooler, crisper conditions with excellent visibility, making the summit views even more spectacular.

Physical and Mental Preparation

Conquering Mt. Dhaulagiri requires intense physical and mental preparation. Due to the technical nature of the climb, climbers should be in excellent physical condition, with strong endurance, cardio fitness, and prior experience with mountaineering at high altitudes. Additionally, mental toughness is vital, as you’ll be facing harsh conditions, altitude sickness, and the pressure of climbing one of the world’s toughest peaks. Regular training, including altitude acclimatization, is highly recommended.

The Route to Dhaulagiri Base Camp

The expedition begins in Pokhara, where climbers drive to Darbang, the starting point of the trek. From there, the trek to Dhaulagiri Base Camp offers stunning views of snow-capped peaks, alpine forests, and remote villages. Trekkers pass through picturesque towns such as Muri and Italian Base Camp, gradually making their way to Dhaulagiri Base Camp at 4,750 meters. The journey to Base Camp is an adventure in itself, allowing climbers to immerse themselves in the beauty of Nepal's wilderness.

Acclimatization on Mt. Dhaulagiri

Proper acclimatization is critical when climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri. Most climbers follow a strategy of rotating between camps, ascending to higher altitudes and then returning to Base Camp to rest. This process, known as acclimatization rotations, helps your body adjust to the reduced oxygen levels at high altitudes, minimizing the risk of altitude sickness and ensuring a safer climb.

Summit Push: Reaching the Top of Mt. Dhaulagiri

The final summit push is the culmination of weeks of preparation. After acclimatizing and rotating between Camp 1 (5,800m), Camp 2 (6,400m), and Camp 3 (7,250m), climbers begin the summit attempt from Camp 4 (7,500m). The final stretch is incredibly steep and exposed, often requiring fixed ropes and ice axes to traverse the icy slopes. However, the effort is rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayan range, including Annapurna, Manaslu, and even as far as the Tibetan plateau.

Challenges of the Dhaulagiri Expedition

The Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition is renowned for its technical difficulty and unpredictable weather. Climbers must navigate through steep ice walls, crevasses, and avalanche-prone areas, making this one of the more dangerous 8,000-meter peaks. Strong winds, snowstorms, and the risk of frostbite are constant challenges. The climb is not recommended for beginners; it is best suited for climbers with experience on other high-altitude peaks.

Safety Considerations

Safety is the top priority on any high-altitude expedition. Climbers must always be equipped with proper safety gear, including oxygen tanks, avalanche beacons, and high-quality climbing equipment. Experienced guides and Sherpas are essential for a successful and safe climb. Reputable expedition companies provide experienced leadership, ensuring that all safety protocols are followed and that climbers are well-prepared for the risks involved.

Climbing Gear for Mt. Dhaulagiri

The extreme conditions on Mt. Dhaulagiri require specialized equipment. Essential gear includes high-altitude boots, ice axes, crampons, and fixed ropes. Climbers also need insulated clothing designed for sub-zero temperatures, including down suits, gloves, and goggles. Lightweight but durable tents, sleeping bags rated for extreme cold, and reliable cooking equipment are also necessary to withstand the harsh environment.

Permits and Regulations for the Dhaulagiri Expedition

Climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri requires several permits from the Nepalese government. These include:

Dhaulagiri Climbing Permit
Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP)
TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) Card

These permits are mandatory for all climbers and help fund conservation efforts and maintain safety standards in the region.

Choosing the Right Expedition Company

Selecting the right expedition company is crucial for a successful ascent of Mt. Dhaulagiri. Look for companies with a proven track record, experienced guides, and a strong focus on safety. Your chosen company should offer well-planned itineraries, proper acclimatization schedules, and have access to high-quality equipment. Additionally, make sure your guides have extensive knowledge of the Dhaulagiri route and weather patterns.

The Reward: The Experience of Summiting Mt. Dhaulagiri

Reaching the summit of Mt. Dhaulagiri is a profound achievement. The panoramic views from the top, including the Annapurna range and beyond, are indescribably beautiful. But beyond the views, the sense of personal accomplishment and the mental and physical growth you experience on the journey make this one of the most rewarding climbs in the world.

Conclusion

The Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition is an exhilarating journey that challenges even the most experienced climbers. From the moment you set foot in the remote valleys of Nepal to the final ascent to one of the world's highest summits, every step of the way is an unforgettable adventure. If you're ready to push your limits and embark on one of the toughest 8,000-meter climbs, Mt. Dhaulagiri awaits.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

When is the best time to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri?

The ideal times to climb are during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is most favorable.

How difficult is the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The expedition is considered one of the most technically difficult climbs among 8,000-meter peaks, requiring prior experience in high-altitude and technical mountaineering.

What is the total cost of climbing Mt. Dhaulagiri?

The cost ranges from $12,000 to $18,000 USD, depending on the expedition company, inclusions like permits, and the length of the expedition.

How long does the entire expedition take?

The full Dhaulagiri Expedition typically takes around 40 to 45 days, including acclimatization and trekking to Base Camp.

Do I need prior experience for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Yes, prior experience on other high-altitude climbs is essential due to the technical difficulty and extreme altitude of the Dhaulagiri ascent.

What is the height of Mt. Dhaulagiri?

Mt. Dhaulagiri stands at 8,167 meters (26,795 feet) above sea level, making it the 7th highest mountain in the world.

How difficult is the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The Dhaulagiri Expedition is considered a challenging climb, requiring mountaineering experience, physical endurance, and technical climbing skills, especially due to steep ice and snow conditions on the route.

Do I need previous high-altitude climbing experience to attempt Dhaulagiri?

Yes, prior experience with high-altitude climbing (around 6,000 meters or more) is recommended. It’s important to be familiar with the use of mountaineering tools like ice axes, crampons, and ropes.

How long does the Dhaulagiri Expedition take?

The full expedition generally takes around 5 to 6 weeks, including trekking to base camp, acclimatization, and summit attempts.

What is the best time to undertake the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

The best time for the Dhaulagiri Expedition is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) seasons when weather conditions are favorable for climbing.

What kind of accommodation is available during the trek?

During the trek, you’ll stay in teahouses in lower altitudes and in tents at higher altitudes, including base camp and higher camps on the mountain.

Do I need a permit for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Yes, climbers require a special permit for the Dhaulagiri Expedition. The cost of the permit is higher due to the high-altitude nature of the climb, and a TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card is also required.

What should I bring on the expedition?

Essential gear includes mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, ropes, a sleeping bag for high-altitude, warm clothing, gloves, and a good quality tent for the camps.

How are the conditions on the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Climbers will encounter extreme cold, avalanches, crevasses, and high winds. There is limited contact with civilization above certain points, so self-sufficiency and support from expert guides are crucial.

What are the chances of summiting Mt. Dhaulagiri?

While the success rate for summiting Dhaulagiri is relatively low due to difficult conditions and weather, with proper preparation, acclimatization, and good weather conditions, climbers have a chance of reaching the summit.

Is a guide required for the Dhaulagiri Expedition?

Yes, due to the technical nature of the climb and remote terrain, a guide is mandatory. It's also essential to have a team of professional sherpas and mountaineers for support during the summit attempt.

Is insurance necessary for the expedition?

Yes, comprehensive travel and evacuation insurance that covers high-altitude trekking and emergency rescue services is mandatory before beginning the expedition.

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Mt.Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167m)