Expédition du Dhaulagiri (8,167m)

Expédition du Dhaulagiri (8,167m)

Commençant par

Katmandou

Se terminant à

Katmandou

Durée

Hébergement

Camping et Lodge

Noter

Difficile

Altitude maximale

8,167m

Plan de repas

Petit-déjeuner,déjeuner et diner

Taille de groupe

1-15

Mt.Dhaulagiri (8,167m) is one of the most popular 8,000m mountain peak for climbing in Nepal. Mt Dhaulagiri, also widely known as `The Great White Mountain’ as derived from its name is counted as the seventh highest mountain in the world lying above sea level at approximately 8,167m (26,795 ft). Normally, four camps will be set up for the climbing. Advance base camp will be set up at 5,300m. which is used for depositing the stuff and not as camping due to avalanche danger. Camp I will be set up at 5,900m. on the Col. which requires climbing towards the east from the Advance Base Camp. Camp II will be fixed at 6,400m. which will require stretches of steep climbing. From Camp II, we climb towards west side with steep climbing and arrive Camp III at 7,200m. We then climb towards the East Ridge. When we get over the ridge, we will have to be very careful climbing over the ridge and probably, we will have to face strong wind while climbing and arrive at Camp IV, 7,500m.

The climbing of this section is considered the most difficult in the expedition. Then we will push the summit and return to Camp III if everything goes well as planned. If we could not approach the summit from Camp IV due to bad weather or other reasons, we will have to fix bivouac at 7,900m. and next day try to push to the summit.

Mt. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world in the Northcentral region of Nepal in the Dhaulagiri Zone. It lays to the north-west of Pokhara and to the east of the Annapurna Himalayas range. Dhaulagiri means “White Mountain”. Normally, to do an expedition to Mt. Dhaulagiri, four camps will be set up Camp I 5,900m. On the Col, Camp II at 6,400m, Camp III at 7,200m and Camp IV 7,500m. The climbing of this section is considered the most difficult in the expedition. Then we will push the summit and return to Camp III if everything goes well as planned. If we could not approach the summit from Camp IV due to bad weather or other reasons, we will have to fix bivouac at 7,900m and next day try to push to the summit. Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960, by Kurt Diemberger and members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the “Normal Route” on the mountain.

01

Katmandou

A votre arrivée à Katmandou, vous êtes accueilli à l’aéroport et transféré à l’hôtel. Après-midi libre, Repas libres. Nuit à l’hôtel.

02

Katmandou

Visite guide culture dans la vallée de Katmandou. Vérification de l'équipement et de l'emballage, introduction entre nos équipes et les membres sur la façon de communiquer entre eux. Réunion d’information au Ministre du tourisme et de l’aviation civile, Division de l’industrie du tourisme.

03

Kathmandu - Beni (9h-900m) en bus

04

Beni - Babiya Chour (5h-1050m)

05

Babiya Chour - Darbang(6h-1300m)

06

Darbang - Sibang (7h-2000m)

07

Sibang - Muri (6h-2100m)

08

Muri - Bagar (7h-2500m)

09

Bagar - Dovan (6h-2800m)

10

Dovan - Chartare(6h-3000m)

11

Chartare - Camp base de Italian (5h-4000m)

12

Italian Base Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4750m)

13-40

Aascention du Expédition du Dhaulagiri (8,167m)

Aascention du Expédition du Dhaulagiri (8,167m)

41

Base Camp - French col 5360m, Trek à HiddenValley (6h-5250m)

42

Hidden Valley - Kalopani(6h-4000m)

43

Kalopani - Jomsom (5h-2750m)

44

En vol Jomsom - Pokhara et retour Katmandou

45

Katmandou

46

Départ

Le coût comprend

  1. 5 Nights  accommodation in Kathmandu on BB Plan (Bed & Breakfast)
  2. 1 Night Hotel accomodation in Pokhara on BB Plan (Bed and Breakfast)
  3. Climbing permit fee of Mt. Dhaulagiri
  4. Trek on the camp from Beni to Base Camp and Base Camo to Jomsom. Food for Base camp during Expedition period
  5. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  6. Porters/Yak from Beni to Base camp & Base camp to Kathmandu
  7. Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew and flight tickets
  8. Transportation: Kathmandu to Beni and Pokhara to Kathmandu
  9. Insurance and Helicopter rescue for Nepalese expedition crew.
  10. 1:1 climbing Sherpa
  11. 1 tent for 2 people for Expedition
  12. Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  13. Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  14. Annapurna Conversion Area Project (ACAP) entrance fees
  15. Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator, Satellite Phone (call basis), Gas heater and Generator
  16. Agency service charge

Le coût exclut

1: Nepal entry visa fee
2: International airfare
3: Entrance fees for sightseeing/monument visit as per the itinerary
4: Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu and Pokhara (except farewell dinner)
5: Rescues, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses
6: phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, mineral water and hot shower
7: Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips
8: Clothing packing items or bags, personal medical kit
9: Personal equipment for climbing & trekking( Down Jacket and Sleeping Bags)
10: Any additional staff other than specified
11:Tips and Gratitude.
12:In case of natural calamities i.e. political unrest, cancellation of flight due to weather, landslides etc the extra charge should be born by themselves.
13:Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa and staffs’ tip (US$500 to US$1,000)
14:Personal expenses

Equipment List:

Climbing Gear

  • Helmet: Must be able to fit over your ski hat
  • Alpine Ice Axe: General mountaineering tool (65-70cm)
  • Crampons: 12 points
  • Ascender: 1 right or left-hand ascender
  • A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops
  • Carabiners: 3 lockings and 6 regular*
  • Rappel device: ATC or figure 8*

 

Clothing

Footwear:

  • Mountaineering boots: suitable for above 8000m; Scarpa phantom 8000 or equivalent (This is because we can work under extreme weather conditions and also preparing you for your ultimate goal to climb Everest)
  • Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp.
  • Booties: Optional, down is best.
  • Bridgedale Summit socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
  • Bridgedale Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs

 

Body Layers:

  • 2 merino base layers: top and bottom
  • 1 mid-layer top: breathable
  • Underwear
  • Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
  • Soft Shell jacket with hoody: To be worn over other layers
  • Soft Shell Pants: Very breathable and water repellent
  • Hard Shell Jacket with hood: A waterproof and breathable shell jacket
  • Hard Shell Pants: Waterproof and breathable shell pants
  • Insulated Down Jacket with hood: (fill power 800) or equivalent to Rab’s Electron Jacket. We primarily wear this when climbing below Camp 3
  • Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
  • Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
  • Summit Down Suit 

 

Headgear and Handwear:

  • Warm Hat: Synthetic or wool hat (ski hat)
  • Sunhat: To shade your face/neck from the sun on a hot day
  • Buff: To protect your neck/face from the sun
  • Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
  • Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
  • Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
  • Softshell gloves: To wear for moderate cold/wind
  • Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
  • Expedition Mitts

 

 Personal Gear:

  • Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
  • Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
  • Sleeping Bag (for high camps): Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic.
  • Sleeping Bag (for base camp): rated to at least -20°F
  • Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing the volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack
  • High-Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred
  • Closed-cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping
  • Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
  • Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
  • Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
  • Spoon: Plastic spoon
  • Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
  • Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
  • Lip balm with sunblock
  • Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with a 1-litre capacity
  • Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
  • Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good one to keep your water warm for longer hours)
  • Pee bottle: 1-litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
  • Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and a small towel
  • Hand warmers & toe warmers
  • Penknife or multi-tool (optional)
  • Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards.
  • Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
  • Travel Clothes: For days in-country
  • Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
  • Base Camp Items: Kindle, I pad, smartphone, etc
  • Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is good
  • Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care***, personal medications, etc
  • Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
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